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I took this picture of my Grandpa Corky showing off his straw hat before he was getting ready to go bale hay. He was part of the Greatest Generation and the epitome of the American Cowboy. He lived off the land at his ranch in Lewistown, couldn’t be buffaloed by any horse or a bull that was too full of himself, prided himself on being able to outwork any other man around, he had good manners (where I get my old school preference for manners), and he was a patriot who fought for the freedom of our county while serving in the Army in WWII.
So you wanna be a cowboy, eh? Well then, you're going to need a hat, and, as with so many aspects of rural life in Montana, there is a "way" about the cowboy hat. You might as well know right upfront that cowboy hats are not just about style; they're a matter of practical importance and carry a deep cultural heritage.
Like the wild rag, the cowboy hat is a functional part of the cowboy uniform serving as necessary protection from the sun, or the cold and precipitation. The high crown offers a bit of insulation, and the wide brim delivers shade for the face and neck. In a pinch it can be used as a bucket to water your horse, to fan a flame, or as a sort of extension of the arm when pushing/moving cows. Historically, as the legendary cattlemen and cowboys of old began to tame the wild American West, tales of their grit and rugged individualism spread far and wide, captivating the more genteel types who followed the trails after them. Over time, the cowboy's hat became an iconic symbol of the free, independent spirit of the West.
Many cowboys were (still are) very superstitious so particular traditions became attached to their hat. Today, although their numbers are dwindling, there are still ranchers & cowboys who wear their hats for the same practical reasons as their predecessors. Farmers, horsemen and rural folks in general do as well, and they all seem to instinctively know the traditions attached to them. Very many others do not. For them the hat is just a fashion statement. While I really do love to see so many identify with the independent cowboy spirit, as a strong advocate for honoring our Western heritage, I hold an unapologetic opinion on Western "fashion" that mocks the legacy. By knowing some history, we can honor the rich traditions and enduring spirit of the American West. Since we are in the heat of straw-hat season in Montana, I thought I'd share some tips on selecting a summertime lid.
Do's
Wear a straw or palm leaf hat for summer months. The straw hat is light weight, light colored and more ventilated/breathable offering comfort in hot summer months. In the spirit of freedom, you can wear your felt year round, of course, but tradition says save your felt for cooler weather and formal occasions. American Hat Company and Stetson/Resistol) are a couple trusted brands for a quality hat. (note: John Stetson's 1865 "Boss of the Plains" hat became the prototype for our hats today).
Visit a western wear store or a professional hat maker to try on a few. There are many brim widths, crown heights & crease styles. The Bitterroot Valley is home to one of the best hatters in the country, Jimmy Harrison of Double H Hat Company in Darby. Jimmy specializes in custom felt hats. Stop in his shop next time you're in the area.
Choose a hat that fits your face and the shape of your head.
Select a hat that is comfortable, snug enough to stay on your head, but not so tight that it gives you a headache.
Always have a hat band on your hat - the simple ribbon your hat comes with is sufficient.
Know when to take your hat off. Remove cover when you go indoors, for funerals, weddings, when being introduced to a lady, for national anthem, pledge of allegiance and presentation of old glory.
Always put your hat on correctly (always)!
Don'ts
Don't take your fashion ques from celebrity types. Just because they're attached to the "country" genre or wearing boots doesn't mean they know the first thing about why cowboys wear either, making a mockery of western tradition.
Don't wear a black straw hat - black draws the sun; you'll be sweating buckets under it!
Don't roll your brim up so tight that it defeats the purpose - this tells the world you don't know why a hat has a brim at all.
Don't buy a hat that looks like grandma decoupaged her crochet project. These are not cowboy hats. They're so full of holes they don't protect you from the elements. No, they don't look cool, and no respectable cowboy would be caught dead in one.
Do NOT touch or remove a person's hat (unless you're looking for a fight)
Don't set your hat brim side down - it pours out your good luck
For the love of all things sacred, do NOT put your hat on backward! If you can't tell front from back by looking at your hat, then look for the little ribbon bow on the sweatband inside - that's the back - make sure it's on the back side of your head when you put your hat on. The chart below shows many of the traditional straw-hat shapes. (you're welcome!)
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